The Lake of a Thousand Islands
A phenomena of recent creation, the Lake of a Thousand Islands is so unassuming that it remains unmarked on the great map of China - or most guide books for that matter. Hidden away in the Eastern reaches of Zhejiang province, the Lake of a Thousand Islands is overshadowed by the neighbouring city of Hangzhou, one of China's premiere tourist attractions. While one of China's oldest tourist blurbs - 'in heaven there is paradise, on earth Suzhou and Hangzhou' - may have been an accurate reflection of these cities a century ago, years of heavy tourism have slowly changed the face of their beauty. These destinations remain a must-see for those wanting to visit famous Chinese water scenes, but for those seeking something closer to the word 'paradise' as it is understood as a Western concept, the Lake of a Thousand Islands offers a much more apt alternative.

An idyllic picture of blue water and green isles, the Lake of a Thousand Islands is a respite for travellers weary of overly iconic scenic attractions; a refuge for those wanting to escape overcrowded and polluted city centres; a retreat for those needing to recuperate from their 'china experience'; and a recreational resort for those wishing to revive the body and revitalise the soul. For those new to country, the lake is an interesting example of the emergence of leisure tourism in China. With a population of a mere 45,000, the small township that borders the lake feels more like one big lakeside resort than a town. A large selection of first-class accommodation affords more discerning visitors the opportunity to stay on a private lake and enjoy an undisturbed spot of sun and stretch of water. For the more adventurous, the lake sports the largest recreational water centre in eastern China, and is the perfect place to indulge the inner-child and try out a whole raft of water-sports for much less than it would cost in most Western countries. The Lake of a Thousand Islands vicinity encompasses many qualities comparable with internationally renowned resort destinations, but the undeniable advantage it has over such overseas rivals is that it is conveniently located within the Chinese borders.

Located in Chun'an County, the Lake of a Thousand Islands lies 140 kilometres southwest of Hangzhou, along the old shipping route of the Qiang-Fuchen-Xian'an Rivers. The lake is in fact a reservoir formed by the completed construction of the Xin'an River Hydroelectric Power Station in 1959. The transformation of a mountainous valley into a picturesque scene of pristine water and secluded islands was an inadvertent by-product of economic development and engineering achievement. The region has subsequently become China's largest state forest park, spanning almost 1,000 square kilometres. Today, the Lake of a Thousand Islands can be considered a natural scenic beauty in its own right - a modern ecological haven of native flora and fauna.

Recognised by the tourism industry as a 'bright pearl on the golden tourist line' connecting the famous Yellow Mountain of southern Anhui province and the West Lake of northern Zhejiang province, the Lake of a Thousand Islands more than holds its own against its famous neighbours. From an elevated vantage point, the view of the lake and surrounding region feels like a surreal scene stolen from an ancient Chinese scroll painting - dark isles rising from the mists of the waters blend into a backdrop of mountain ranges that fade into a distant skyline. Under a clear sky, however, no watercolour can do justice to the emerald green and gold of the islands mirrored in a luminous expanse of clear blue water. From above, the islands look like lazy turtles drifting in a pool of heavenly water; from below, touring on the waters of the lake is like holidaying inside a beautiful picture.

The name 'Lake of a Thousand Islands' evokes imagery of a thousand scenes, and this is a fair representation of the ever-changing waters of the lake. The spirit of the lake changes with the seasons, reflecting the mood of the heavens above. At dawn the lake sleeps under a light blanket of mist; at noon sparkles of diamonds and gold shimmer through iridescent waters; and at dusk brilliant rays of gold and red spill across a lake of fire as the sun retreats beyond the dark shadows of the mountain peaks. In autumn, the hills are dyed with yellows and burnt orange, the rich gold clay of the shorelines melting into a depth of dark blue. In winter, jagged ice sculptures overhang the lake and the islands form a chain of white across the water. In spring, a scene of blossom is unveiled to reveal a picture of red, pink and white splashed against a backdrop of aqua waterways. In summer, the pristine waters are cool and inviting beneath the puffs of white cloud and blue sky.

The pure waters of the lake flow directly from the Alpine peaks of the northern Yellow Mountain range. This fact, coupled with the reservoirs relative youth and the region's sparse population have protected the lake thus far from the fates of more famous Chinese lakes such as the West Lake in Hangzhou and Lake Taihu of Jiangsu province. Today, the reservoir is considered one of China's cleanest water supplies and boasts the country's largest scale water production facility, with Nongfu Spring water drawn and distilled from the waters of the lake. The 17.8 million cubic metres of freshwater are breeding ground to an abundance of fish and aquatic life. Not surprisingly, the fresh fish on the local menu is among the best on offer in China. The environment bordering the lake is also lush with vegetation and wildlife, and the rate of green ground coverage is six times the state average. The Lake of a Thousand Islands area nurtures more than 1,700 types of plant life and the atmosphere is pure and clean - a literal breath of fresh air. The breeze that drifts lazily across the waters of the lake carries the fragrance of osmanthus and wisteria. The perfumed wind is a sensual reminder of the beautiful expanse of native flora that grows unrestrained across the region.

The Lake of a Thousand Islands cannot be dismissed as simply an area of scenic splendour. The serene landscape above the water's surface belies the historical wonders hidden within its blue depths. Submerged beneath the water rests a unique archaeological treasure. The 1,800 year-old remains of an ancient Chinese city can be found in the mysterious underwater world of the lake - an Atlantis of the east. The story of a city abandoned to a watery grave forms the heritage of the region and survives in the folk culture of the relocated residents. The city walls and architecture have remained preserved under the water for the last fifty years, and prevail as some of the most substantial sunken artefacts in the world.
The impressive beauty of China's mountains and lakes have been idealised and romanticised by scholars and artists for centuries. It is almost impossible to appreciate such scenery without feeling the presence of a legacy that spans millennia. In a country as ancient as China it is rare to find a place that feels fresh and undiscovered by millions of feet before you. The paradise of water and islands that is the Lake of a Thousand Islands is such a rarity. A retreat that remains hidden from the masses, the sanctuary of the lake is almost too good to be true.

History
Sinking Mountains, Rising Islands
The formation of The People's Republic in 1949 and the subsequent 'Great Leap Forward' heralded the arrival of numerous large-scale construction projects. The flooding of the Chun'an basin was one such project that has successfully stood the test of time. The beautiful Lake of a Thousand Islands that ensues today was formed by the construction project of the Xin'an River Hydroelectric Power Station in the late 1950s. Designed to meet burgeoning demands on the nation's power supply, the station was the first of its kind to be designed and built solely by Chinese engineers. Although subsequently dwarfed by projects of a much grander scale across the nation - most recently the Three Gorges Dam in Hubei Province - the Xin'an River Hydroelectric Power Station remains a fixture in the history of China's post-liberation development.

Construction of the dam commenced on April 1, 1957, with the power station becoming operational on September 21, 1959. During the flooding of the Chun'an basin, entire cities disappeared beneath the water, lost forever in Chinese history. The water spread across the lower plateaus and farmlands, advancing in every direction until it met with the unbreachable walls of the surrounding mountain ranges. The rising water surged into cavernous ravines as deep as 100 metres and drowned the smaller mountains in a deluge of water that left only the peaks visible above the surface. The mountains - the great "dragons" of Chun'an - that refused to surrender to the water's might stand semi-submerged in the form of the islands seen today. The reservoir created in the process now stretches a total length of 60 kilometres east to west and 50 kilometres north to south. Covering an area of 573 square kilometres, the surface area of the water is comparable in size to Lake Geneva in the Swiss Alps.

The tributaries that feed into the basin flow from the famous Yellow Mountain of south Anhui province, a mountain range with some 30 peaks rising 1,500m above sea level. The reservoir's pristine waters reflect their alpine origin, and the average visibility of the lake is 7-9 metres. The water has an average depth of 34 metres, and the great "dragons" of its depths are forced to swim with their heads above the surface, forming a spectacular vista of jade green isles on a sea of blue. The actual number of islands on the lake is 1,078 in total - hence where the Lake of a Thousand Islands takes its name. This number is subject to the changing water levels of the lake. It seems that some of the lake's dragonheads are apt to disappearing and re-emerging from the water, as if playing a game of chase with the poor historian.

This beautiful scene of islands and water can be credited to the skilful hands of the Chinese engineers who, while endeavouring to create a national power supply that would service the industrial sector for years to come, inadvertently left behind the legacy of a national park that will service the blossoming recreational sector for years to come.

An Atlantis of the East
The damming of the Xin'an River resulted in 1,800 years of civilisation disappearing into the depths of what is now the Lake of a Thousand Islands. Ancient cities and historical structures were surrendered to the rising water. Abandoned, they now lay buried in a watery grave. For more than fifty years, this sunken treasure of cultural artefacts has remained unexplored by the masses, preserved by a thirty-metre wall of water that shrouds what rests below with a cloak of darkness and mystery. Whispers of the memories left behind in the cities float up occasionally to the surface as a reminder of the secrets that await discovery below. For the experienced diver it is possible to sink into an underwater world of intrigue and explore first-hand the uncharted ruins of a lost civilisation. Submerged beneath the water lies the ancient towns of Chuncheng, Shicheng, Weiping, Chayuan and Gangkou, along with 49 more recently established towns and villages, 1,377 farming settlements and a host of modern infrastructure.

While most of the cities architectural structures were demolished because of uncertainty regarding the final water level of the lake, the ancient Shi city was left to disappear gracefully. This archaeological graveyard now rests in what is known as the Maotoujian area of the lake, 30 kilometres from the Lake of a Thousand Islands Township. According to official authentication, the ruins form the largest and best-preserved underwater city in the world.

In by-gone eras, Shi (Lion) city was a prosperous commercial centre strategically located on the shipping and transportation route between the cities of Anhui and Zhejiang provinces. Many of the original residents migrated from the Anhui area in the Ming and Qing dynasties. The culture and architecture of the Lion City retained close ties with its Anhui ancestry. The Anhui region at the time was famous for its business enterprise and the beautiful carvings that adorned city buildings. A distinctive characteristic of Anhui-style architecture that is also found within the dwellings of the Lion city is an abundance of ornate wood and stone carving. The intricate pictures within the carvings portray the daily life of the people in minute detail, and provide an insight into a bygone era for today's underwater visitor. The sophisticated walls of the Lion city also remain intact beneath the water. Built on mountainous terrain, the high stonewalls that careen over uneven terrain are a unique feature of the Lion city, and are vastly different in design to other city walls of the period. In a bed of undisturbed water, the 'sleeping Lion' is a city frozen in time, a living museum beneath the water that serves as a portal into a forgotten world.


As the great cities of Chun'an slowly sunk beneath the waves, the county was left without a city to govern this new bed of water. A new township was built on the central peninsula of the lake to act as a port city linking the neighbouring villages. Conveniently located 140 kilometres from Hangzhou, the newly created Lake of A Thousand Islands Township now serves as a stopover to the famous Yellow Mountain scenic spot. The township is a comparatively new city by Chinese standards, with less than fifty years history since its conception. Most of the people now living in the township originally came from the county's neighbouring cities and the Anhui region. Many relocated from prosperous cities such as Hangzhou in order to create a new urban metropolis they could call their own. The town and surrounding area remained relatively undeveloped until a visit from the General Administration of National Construction in 1979. The area was declared a state forest park, and development of several tourism sites began in the early 1980s. The early years were not particularly fruitful for the county, as many of the larger-scale projects required a long timeframe to recoup initial investment. Tourist numbers remained relatively low until the government conducted a large scale remaking and construction of the scenic areas of The Lake of a Thousand Islands in 1998. Since then, the township has undergone rapid change and development, and is an emerging picture of modern mini-metropolis. The population has steadily increased over the years, but remains at a very manageable 45,000. The development of the region also created many new opportunities to utilize Chun'an as a centre for tourism, fishing and recreation in an innovative new manner. The people of the lake now proudly market the area as a tourist destination in its own right, promoting it as a "shining pearl on the golden tour-line" that connects the Lake of a Thousand Islands, Hangzhou and the Yellow Mountain.

The visitor arriving in Chun'an would never have reason to guess that this beautiful reservoir of water was a recent addition to the county's landscape. It is only the refreshing absence of overcrowded cities and pollution that give the game away.

Culture
Chun'an Custom

The unique cultural heritage of the Chun'an County people was established in the Sui and Tang dynasties when a new wave of arriving residents introduced their own folk customs to the region. Such folk customs were integrated into mainstream culture, taking on the regional characteristics of the later part of the Tang dynasty. Gradually, Xin'an culture (now known as Muzhou culture) developed, and most folk customs celebrated around the Lake of a Thousand Islands today originate from this era. The people of the Lake of A Thousand Islands Township originally migrated from the surrounding Chun'an region, the greater Zhejiang province, and faraway provinces to start a new life beside the lake. While there are not many folk customs specific to the Lake of a Thousand Islands Township, the villages surrounding the Chun'an basin retain a rich cultural heritage that spills over into the life of the town's residents. Mu Opera and the "Jumping Bamboo Horse" are two cultural performances originating from the Chun'an area that can be viewed at the Lake of a Thousand Islands. Many of the townspeople return to their hometowns in the outer reaches of Chun'an County to spend important Chinese festivals such as the Chinese New Year.

An Opera of Three Feet

Mu Opera is one of more than 300 different types of opera performed in China. Mu Opera is a combination of the ten popular local dances, which features the "jumping bamboo horse" and the dance for celebrating the tea harvest. The latter form of the dance is in fact borrowed from the Eastern part of Jiangxi province - originating from the Tea-plucking Theatre of Gandong. Over the years, local dialect, customs, ballads, folktales and the local county culture have given the opera its own distinctive style that became immensely popular with the local farmers. Typically, there are only three characters in this kind of light opera, and is often referred to by the locals as 'Three Feet Opera', because the word for "role" is pronounced the same as "foot" in local dialect. It was only later that it officially became known as Mu Opera, with the name "Mu" reflecting the influence of Muzhou culture. Usually performed as part of the Mu Opera is the dance of the 'Jumping Bamboo Horse'. The dance was introduced in the Ming dynasty, and involves the performer straddling a costumed bamboo stick to give the illusion of a horseback rider. The dance is a lively ensemble of several performers who act out a story to music. Mu Opera has retained its popularity over the years, and is an important part of the New Year celebrations in the outlying villages of The Lake of a Thousand Islands. Today, tourists visiting the Five-Dragon Island scenic site can enjoy daily opera performances.

Lakeside Festivity

The Chinese New Year falls at the end of the lunar calendar, usually lasting for two weeks sometime between late January and early February. It is often referred to as the Spring Festival, because the end of the lunar year marks the beginning of spring. The last night of the old year and the first morning of the new year are considered the most important days of the Spring Festival, and the period leading up to New Year's Eve is one of the busiest times for the local people of the Lake of a Thousand Islands. Mountains of food must be prepared in advance in order to undertake the elaborate feasting rituals that take place over the New Year period. In addition to the food that will be consumed during the period, many dishes are also prepared as sacrifices to appease the ancient Chinese God Po'sa. Most of the local villagers are highly superstitious, and believe that New Year traditions and rituals must be closely adhered to in order to avoid bad luck for the following year. After the New Year dinner, candles and incense sticks are placed outside the ancestral hall to burn through the night. People do not usually go to bed on New Year's Eve - they stay up to "see the old year out and the new year in." When the households open their doors to welcome the New Year, many families set off fireworks to the sound of beating drums. The head of each household will then take the family's food dishes and sacrifices to the ancestral hall. This ritual includes burning money (paper made to resemble real currency) for the dead and the offering of a variety of food dishes to their ancestors. The most important sacrificial dish is a pig's head. The pig heads are elaborately stuffed with fruit and vegetables, and the size and weight of the entire head is a symbol of how wealthy the family is. These days, there is a high-spirited rivalry to see which family can present the largest pig's head. The following morning, people change into a set of new clothes and eat Longevity Noodles for breakfast. On the second day of the Lunar New Year, most people visit their relatives. This is also the day when the major street festivities such as the Mu Opera and Jumping Bamboo Horse, Lion and Dragon Dances begin.

The City
A Lakeside Resort

By Chinese standards, a small city usually consists of at least several million. With a population of 45,000, the Lake of a Thousand Island Township barely qualifies as a town, let alone a city. In China, most towns with a population of this size are typically rural communities with few modern amenities. Because the construction and subsequent growth of the Lake of a Thousand Islands Township was commercially driven, the streets are lined with relatively new office buildings, shopping centres and apartment complexes. On a first glance, the township lacks the allure of old school Chinese architecture- there are no teahouses or courtyard style houses, no wooden beams, white plaster walls or dilapidated charcoal tiling that usually define the charm of ancient Chinese townships. Yet the township is not without its own charms. Strolling through the town centre feels akin to wandering around a sleepy lakeside community. The lack of people, cars and pollution give the township a distinctly suburban feel. It is rare to find such a pleasant retreat from the roaring hustle and bustle of the major commercial centres while still enjoying the conveniences of urban life. The peaceful ambience found within the 6.5 kilometre radius of the township gives the visitor the impression that the place is not really a town but one large lakeside resort.

From your hotel window, the township looks almost like a Western suburb - trees line the streets beneath a sky of clear blue and birds' fly on the breeze. From below, the scene is serenely Chinese - small stores selling cigarettes and ice-cream line the footpath, cooking smells waft out of restaurant windows and the odd bamboo hat can be seen crossing the street. You can walk along the streets taking in the view without having to worry about shouldering your way through spitting and shouting hoards of people. You don't even have to navigate your way through the usual throngs of bicycles that clutter the footpath, as walking is the most convenient mode of transport in the central hub. An absence of cars and blaring horns makes for a surprisingly quiet stroll across town. If it is too hot to walk, a one RMB taxi ride will take you across town. Don't be surprised if the Chinese residents hail your cab while you are riding in the backseat. It is common practise to share cabs - it seems there are no strangers in this town. For this reason, it is rare to find an empty taxi in the central area. Likewise, there are no traffic jams in the township, and an oversupply of police cars cruising the streets gives the place an orderly feel. The streets feel calm and safe at any time of day. The Lake of a Thousand Islands Township is devoid of the beggars that are usually found in other touristy cities because the area is not yet metropolitan enough to attract the urban drift of peasants leaving the countryside in favour of city life. In fact, the peasants that meander through the township carrying large loads on their backs do not seem out of place - for them this place is not a city to call their home, but rather a modernised extension of their countryside dwellings mere minutes away.

The Lake of a Thousand Islands Township has a history of fifty years, but the majority of the city's current architecture has only been constructed over the last twenty years. Although not grandiose, much of the city's buildings and apartments are tasteful, with an attention to detail and western maturity that is no small feat given the city's rapid progress. While the township may lack the impressive architectural structures seen in larger cities - there are no flash high-rises that dwarf the residents below - it also lacks the ramshackle slums that usually accompany such development. Surprisingly, there is an air of middle-class utopia about the city. While not to be confused with a Western definition of middle-class, there is less of an economic divide between the rich and poor residents. The apartments of the city's highest-ranking officials may have the best views of the lake, but their homes are essentially not that dissimilar to those of residents earning half their monthly salary. In this regard, the town feels like one extended community of neighbours. Walking the streets it is usual to cross the path of a familiar face, and the townspeople have the unhurried gait of their country counterparts - there is always time to stop and chat. After five, the city transforms into an over-sized playground for the children and elderly of the city. As the sun sets, the city streets overflow with families enjoying the last hours of sunshine. The city square is reinvented as a funfair, with various rides and amusement activities for the children. Elderly people rest beneath overhanging building eaves, fanning themselves in the shade. Lovers stroll along the tree-lined paths that fringe the lake. After dark, when the residents are safely tucked in bed, the city sleeps along with them. There is a comforting quiet in the city beneath a blanket of stars that shine across the surrounding waters. An operatic ensemble of frogs and cicadas sing the city a lullaby every night. In the darkness of night, the only sound that carries across the water is the slow chug chugging of a lonely fishing boat heading for new waters. In the morning, the chiming of the city bell rings out across the water, signalling the arrival of dawn.

The city does not have the population or income to sustain an active nightlife beyond family-orientated activities. The local residents seen uninterested in the temptations of the night that go beyond wining and dining with friends and family, and the night-life of the town centre is mainly confined to the city's four-star hotels. There is one deserted bar that sells local beer and attracts a few stragglers. Few patrons ensure attentive service and a welcoming atmosphere, so don't be surprised if the bar staff invite you to sing karaoke with them. There is one coffee shop in the city, but you'd be better off relaxing in the comfort of your hotel room with an instant coffee or finding somewhere in the town square to sit and enjoy an ice cream. In general, Western conveniences are still hard to come by, although one supermarket stocks western chocolates and other 'necessities'. If there are certain items that you know you can't live without, it's best to bring a stockpile along with you. This is to be expected in a small Chinese township, so while you're there you might as well sample the locally bottled Nongfu Spring water and take advantage of such a natural environment to let your body detox for a few days. The water in the city supply is drawn from the lake and feels undeniably fresh and clean - like water from the tap should. A week at the Lake of a Thousand Islands leaves the visitor with a clearer complexion - the impurities of city life slowly cleansed from the system.

Many of the local residents seem unaware of their fortune to be living in such a beautiful environment. For them, dirt, grime and pollution are vague concepts that they have almost forgotten about - such problems only relevant in the tales from the city's youth as they return home each summer from their studies in the 'big smoke'.

A Room with a View

The Lake of a Thousand Islands offers a wide range of accommodation for the international traveller and holidaymaker. There are numerous four and five star hotels and resorts situated both on the mainland and the islands of the lake, with more than 85 hotels in close proximity to the central area. Impressive architectural design, breathtaking views of the lake, conference centres and business facilities combined with first-class service make many of the hotels by the lake the perfect choice for those planning a conference, business meeting or working weekend. For those wanting to escape from the world of work, idyllic island resorts are just a ten-minute boat ride from the city's main transportation hub.

One of the areas premier hotels, the New Century Qiandaohu Hotel, is situated opposite the township on Kylin Peninsula. The complex borders on the lake and is built into the hill - an impressive six floors with guest rooms, five restaurants and cafes, gift stores, conference facilities, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a gym and a private beach volleyball court on the sands of the lakeside. Most of the rooms have a view of the lake - to the south, the lights of the town reflect across the quiet water; to the north, the islands and mountains extend into the horizon. One of the most satisfying things about staying at the Lake of a Thousand Islands is watching the brilliant spectacle of the evening sunset - the existence of such a phenomenon almost forgotten by the Asian city dweller. The seasons bring an array of different canvases for the setting sun, but all are reflected upon the same iridescent pool of water and framed by an endless horizon of dark mountains that shadow the sun as it sinks from sight. You can watch the spectacle of the sun setting over the hills while relaxing in a bathtub of bubbles with a glass of champagne, or capture the last of the sun's rays on a private balcony overlooking the lake. Another option at dusk is to stroll through the 7.5 acres of impeccably manicured gardens owned by the hotel. The private road that leads to the hotel winds through a mini-village of villas that overlook the lake. The hotel complex incudes 88 private villas that that look like they have been teleported straight out of an American suburb - it is only the full-time Chinese gardeners with their straw hats and cute signposts with Chinese characters that give the game away. It is also possible to explore the area by boat, as the resort owns the 'Manhattan 56', a luxury yacht that can be chartered for hire.

The more centrally located Shanghai-esque HaiWaiHai Hotel is one of the older hotels in the city, and retains its original charm with chandelier fittings and a grand staircase at the lobby entrance. From the hotel, the city centre is a two-minute walk, and is perfect for those on a hurried agenda or who want easier access to the main tour boat jetty. The hotel is located a short distance from the local coach station, and remains one of the most popular hotels at The Lake of a Thousand Islands.

Phoenix Resort on Phoenix Island is an all-inclusive holiday destination for those wanting to leave behind the world of cars and city streets. It has its own private 'water world' where guests can enjoy an array of water activities including paddle boating, canoeing, sailing and parasailing among others. The complex also features an extensive outdoor swimming pool that borders the lake. From the hotel villas, the view extends over the complex to an all-encompassing view of the lake.

Those wanting to get-back-to-nature should head for the resort on Warm Island. The winding avenues of the island lead to quiet seclusion, and the small wooden cabins that overlook the water are in picturesque disorder. The hotel on the island offers a mixture of two-storied apartments and regular hotel rooms. While the accommodation has been designed on the outside to look like simple, wooden cabins that blend in with the natural surroundings, on the inside the rooms are luxuriously furnished. These clusters of 'cabins' are actually all inter-connected by a central corridor, and once inside it feels like you could be inside any first-class hotel. Tastefully decorated with a mix of old-school Chinese and Western design, the lacquered mahogany furniture, elegant lounge suite and writing desk allow the perfect mix of business and pleasure. The doors of the rooms open directly onto the garden that borders the lake. From the proximity of the room, the lake seems even bluer and clearer when contrasted with the lush green of the well cared for trees, shrubs and springtime flowers. Where else can you step directly from your hotel room into a garden without walls that you can follow down to the shores of the lake? Warm Island is also the perfect place for those wishing to indulge in a little R&R with a dip in the lake or an afternoon spent at the water recreation centre of the island. While noisy tourist groups populate the eastern side of the island during the day, they usually disappear long before nightfall. The western side of the island is not on the standard tour-route and is a perfect haven to hide away from the rest of the world day or night. After dark, the air is sweet and sticky as you wander through the trees and flowers, and as you move closer to the water it becomes fresh and cool. Strolling about the island beneath the stars, you feel as if you could be anywhere in the world. The meandering paths around the island are perfect for an evening wander lost in your own thoughts - particularly those relating to how you can rearrange your itinerary so that you can stay a little longer.

For the old-fashioned romantics, the largest lake-based luxury cruise liner in China operates on the Lake of a Thousand Islands. The interior has been fitted-out in the image of the Titanic, and passengers can enjoy an evening on the water complete with live piano or karaoke - depending on which floor you dine. The perfect romantic interlude can be found in the beautifully appointed presidential suite with doors that open directly onto the side decks. The ship can accommodate 180 guests and up to 490 passengers, but because most Chinese avoid the heat of the sun during the day, the upper deck is always a perfect place for some quiet sunbathing.

Fish of the Day

The obvious draw-card on the local menu is the abundance of fresh fish dishes to choose from. Farmed in one of the cleanest environment in China, the fish on the menu are arguably among the best tasting found in China. The flavours and varieties of dishes that include fish are almost endless, and it is possible to order an entire dinner that consists of superior tasting seafood. Fish is an important part of the staple diet of the Lake of a Thousand Islands residents, and when dining with a group of locals it is more than likely that your meal will include at least two to three fish dishes - usually consisting of a few different soups and platters with several types of fish in different sauces. The flavour and texture of the fish on the menu at the Lake of a Thousand Islands is similar to fresh fish on the menu abroad. Rather than the usual floury texture of most river-farmed fish available in China, the fish from the lake falls off the bone like fresh fish should. As all of the fish served has been freshly caught from the lake, the taste reflects the purity of the water in which the fish were bred. Those who have sworn off fish in China may be pleasantly surprised at how good it tastes - although be prepared to wrangle with the usual saga of bones, skin and eyeballs. While staying at the lake it is possible to try a new fish dish for every lunch and dinner. If you are keen for something really different, visit one of the more expensive restaurants to see fish of gigantic proportions gracing the tanks that line the front walls. You can pay in excess of 5,000 RMB for the privilege of having one served as your dinner.

A local specialty on the menu is the 'Large Fish Head Soup'. The name is a fairly accurate description of the steaming, oversized pot that arrives on your table. The soup has a really nice flavour if you can manoeuvre your way around the giant eyeballs floating in the mix. The choicest part of the head is the meat found on the inside of the lower jaw. Another dish that is popular at a banquet is an entire turtle (complete with shell) served poached on a plate. It is a sign of respect for the host to offer the guest the shell to eat, as this is regarded as a delicacy. Other seafood treats on the menu are whitebait soup, prawns with garlic and fish roe served as both an entree and main course.

Other local delicacies include ostrich egg omelettes, wild partridge, tender bark leaves, bamboo shoots, and an endless variety of stone fungus from the hills. The bamboo shoots are dried out and then pickled, and make an interesting and tasty dish when stir-fried with bacon. The stone fungus is a dark black with an interesting texture and is added to a variety of dishes as well as providing the base for a few specialty dishes. Dried and roasted chicken's tongue is also a regular on the cold dishes list - although you would never guess what you were eating as it is virtually unrecognisable and looks closer to something from the crustacean. The flavour is much better than its appearance would suggest, and is well worth a few minutes of arduous chewing. Typically, many dishes are served with lajiao - hot red spices, especially the fish dishes. As a whole, the local fare is not as oily as other regions, with subtle flavours that are light on the palette.

The flavours served at 'local restaurants', i.e. those on the city outskirts or from the people of the lake, have a distinctive flavour unto themselves. Many of the dishes are served in a watery red curry, and although they use the word hongshao to describe it, it is nothing like the thick red sauce usually associated with such dishes. On the outskirts of the township, there is a restaurant built on poles that extend across the water - you have to navigate a dubious bridge to reach the peaceful alfresco dining area over the waterfront (literally). Square poles peaking out from the water indicate the presence of the large nets that harbour a fresh supply of fish below. The restaurant is surrounded by a fish farm that extends in all four directions, and the fish served on your plate has been freshly caught from their own private supply - a lack of dirty fish tanks guarantees that your meal is taken directly from the waters of the lake before it arrives on your plate. In the drizzly humidity of a quiet summer night you can sip on tea or fruit infused baijiu (white liquor) and contemplate the stillness of the evening sunset across the water.

Western fare is really only available at the larger hotels, and even then it is usually best to order a Chinese dish - fish is the safest option. There are plenty of local snacks available - dried fish, sunflower seeds and fruit seem to be the favourites. Fish can be seen drying out on the city streets, and vendors sell a variety of sweet fruits found in the Zhejiang region that are particularly refreshing on a hot day - the yangmei is one of such. With its sweet, tangy flavour, it is the perfect accompaniment to a glass of baijiu by the water - in fact, it mixes so well that the locals brew a surprisingly palatable combination of the two. If you are a tea drinker, take the time to sample the local Longjing strain of green tea. The tealeaves grown in the region are a fresh light green, and if you arrive at the lake toward the end of spring you can have the opportunity of picking your own tealeaves on many of the islands. There are numerous teahouses spread across the Lake of a Thousand Islands where you can enjoy the beautiful picture of tiny leaves floating within your glass as the flavour infuses - a miniature scene of the green islands and clear waters of the lake.

The Lake
A Picturesque Panorama

Traditional Chinese landscape paintings were generally black and white ink scenes of mountains and water, often with blank spaces left on the canvas to represent a sensation of serenity within emptiness, which comes from the Taoist tradition of seeking solitude within nature. Even today, the Chinese conception of ideal natural beauty revolves around the combination of mountains and water, and when Chinese describe a place as the ideal of natural beauty, they'll usually say that the place has "mountains and water." The Lake of a Thousand Islands is comprised of both mountains and water; and mountains submerged in water - an enhanced vision of the conventional canvas of mountains and lakes. On a misty morning, the white space from which the mountain peaks rise from the waters and disappear behind layers of cloud conforms to such traditional scenes of ancient serenity. When the mist clears and the sun illuminates a vibrant landscape of aqua waters and dark pink blossom, the lake sparkles with a beauty that cannot be conveyed in black and white. Luckily, modern day photography is the perfect medium with which to capture the colours and intensity of the emerald green islands strewn haphazardly across the blue water like a set of crown jewels. If a picture is worth a thousand words, then a picture of a thousand islands is worth at least ten thousand words. The pictures of the lake look so good that without actually standing within the picture yourself, it is possible to believe that they may be the product of professional photography or skilful Photoshop manipulation. It is only when you have the chance to view the picture with your own eyes that you can believe in the authenticity of the lake's natural beauty.

The best place to view the sweeping panorama of blue and green is from the top of Plum Blossom Peak. From here you feel like you are at the top of the world, looking down from the heavens at an exquisite work of art that changes with each season; each and every sunrise. Until you ascend the peak and stand elevated above the world, you cannot say that you have truly seen the Lake of a Thousand Islands in all its mythic glory. It is true that you cannot get a true appreciation of the scene of a thousand islands until you have actually seen the lake from above and seen the picturesque disarray of islands for yourself. Even amateur photographers can walk away with an impressive album showcasing the lake's natural splendour. That said, on a fine day, the view from Plum Blossom Peak is better than anything captured on even the best panoramic camera. Islands emerge from the water as far as the eye can see, and from above they look like turtles in a sea of green. A view of the lake from such a vantage point will transform even the worst cynic into a believer.

Plum Blossom Peak was given its name because of array of pink, white and red blossom that covers the peak in the spring. Contrasted against the clear blue water, the blossom is the perfect frame through which to enjoy a vista of the lake. Plum Blossom Peak is located just 12 kilometres away from the township of the Lake of a Thousand Islands. Over three hundred islands are visible from the viewing platform of the peak. There are three ways to ascend Plum Blossom Peak - chair lift, bridle-sedan chair, and a walking path that follows the route of the chairlift. While slightly shaky, the chairlift is the best option in summer, because the seemingly easy climb to the top will leave you drenched in sweat. Elevated above a green blanket of pines and firs below, the picture of the lake is slowly unveiled as you rise to the peak. The best way to enjoy Plum Blossom Peak is to lull away the afternoon in the air-conditioned comfort of the teahouse below the viewing platform. Bring a book and escape from the other tourists. There is no pressure to finish your cup of tea, so you can enjoy endless refills while drinking in the view. Like being at an art gallery, it is possible to spend hours staring out across the water, lost in your own dreams.

Dragons in the Mist

The Chun'an county basin has a history rich with legends and stories that speak of great dragons of the past. Today, many traces of this history can be found on the islands of the lake, such as the Dragon Hill Island and the Five-Dragon Island scenic area. What was originally known as Dragon Hill Mountain is now submerged in water with only the peak remaining as the head of the great dragon, now known as Dragon Hill Island. During the period of the Southern Song dynasty, many famous scholars, including one by the literary name of 'Dragon Peak' taught and studied at the foot of Dragon Hill Mountain. The former division line of the ancient Chun'an County is situated at the northeast foot of the mountain, which is now submerged beneath the water.

The Rock Gorge Reading Academy was constructed in honour of the scholar 'Dragon Peak' (also known as Fang Fengchen) in the Southern Song dynasty after he received the title of 'Number One Scholar' in the Imperial examinations. The Rock Gorge reading academy was a grand scale project covering more than 4000 square metres. With temples commemorating past sages and halls for study. It was renovated six times during the Ming and Qing dynasties. After the construction of the Xin'anjiang Reservoir, these historical relics disappeared beneath the water. The Rock Gorge Reading Academy has been faithfully reconstructed upon what is now known as Dragon Hill Island. Construction began in June 2000, and followed the principles of Anhui architecture, utilising materials taken from the old temples in Chun'an County. The Bell Tower is another impressive (albeit recreated) structure found on Dragon Hill Island. Standing over 28.5 metres high it rises above the greenery of the island, and is also the perfect place from which to view the surrounding lakeside. The Bell Tower is also a prominent landmark of the lake, with many a beautiful picture taken of the setting sun glowing behind the dark statue of the tower.

Five Dragon Island is a cluster of five islands that have been developed as a one-stop tourist attraction. A series of bridges interlock the islands, although the islands themselves are separately managed and charge individual entrance fees. Impossibly large goldfish and red carp can be found on the 'Bridge of Joyous Fish' that connects the main island and the docking ramp. The floating pontoon bridge has a series of open-water viewing tanks in the middle of the walkway that overflow with a mass of gold and orange bodies weaving through the water. The fish respond to clapping and human encouragement, and will follow you around the periphery of the pool like a school of hungry piranha on the move. If you entice them to a corner of the pool, they wriggle on the surface of the water on top of one another, a writhing spectacle of scales and splashing water. Carefully dropped morsels of food can whip them into a feeding frenzy, and they will follow you around the edges of the tank, creating a whirlpool of plump red bodies shimmering beneath the water. The largest fish in the tanks are over a metre in length, their dark grey bodies cruising in the deeper water like lithe predators. There is also a strange variety of white carp living in the waters, dubbed by the Chinese as the 'Old White Ladies of the Water'.

The Five Dragon Island tourist site is also home to the country's most extensive display of ancient Chinese locks. The word padlock usually conjures up images of sturdy; square shaped metal devices designed with the sole purpose of securing possessions - an everyday item that bears no cultural significance or interest. However, this is not the case in Chinese history. The padlocks on display at the Lock Island Museum are intricate works of art that bear no resemblance to the clunky padlocks of the West. Traditionally, Chinese locks were symbolic of the owner's status - a beautiful piece of jewellery that had little to do with functionality. Today, the Lock Island Museum has over 1,000 locks on display, with some dating back thousands of years. Many of the ancient padlocks are crafted in the shape of animals or other meaningful symbols of Chinese culture, such as the fish lock, pillow lock, horn lock, unicorn lock and Chinese flute lock, etc. In past dynasties, the design of the keyhole from simple to complex indicated the owner's status. The use of a type of lock was strictly restricted to a certain class. For example, in feudal China, the keyhole of the lock used by the general public was in the shape of the Chinese character (_), while a keyhole in the shape of Chinese character (_) conferred the status of a scholar or officer. Emperors, ministers and generals owned locks with a keyhole shaped in the form of the Chinese character for "noble" (_). The only exception was the lock used at weddings and festive events - which was the same for all classes and resembled the character for "lucky." The Lock Island Museum is an interesting historic stopover along the scenic route of the lake, and a glimpse into a world that defies all preconceptions of the role of the padlock in society. There are also over 150,000 locks of modern origin on the island, and Chinese of all ages purchase souvenir locks from the kiosk and inscribe a message upon and the locks to hang upon purpose built eaves that line the paths of the island. Every year the locks hung by tourists are taken down and displayed in chronological order in an exhibition hall so that people can return to visit their original inscriptions.

A Lake of Leisure

The lake is the perfect playground on a sunny day. Boats of all shapes and sizes are like white dots scattered about on the lake. Motorboats speed past tourist cruise boats, slow moving barges, and anchored fishermen on their houseboats. The lake is full of life, yet there remains a myriad of leisurely waterways and hidden bays to discover. The water looks so inviting that it is hard to resist the temptation to dive off the side of your boat and take a dip then and there. On a misty morning, visibility on the lake is low. As your boat glides through misty waters, the dark shapes of islands and mountain peaks emerge through a layer of white film. It's like flying through a world before time. When the mist clears and the wind whistles across the water, the lake takes on the green of the sea, with white choppy heads curling in the water. While the locals aren't too keen on taking their boats across the lake when there is even a hint of a mild swell, if you can commander a small boat it is a fun time to be on the water. As the hull of your boat smashes into the face of a wave, a sudden shower of cool fresh water reminds you what it feels like to be truly alive. As clich?as it sounds, there is simply nothing better than speeding across the water with the wind in your hair and the sun on your face.

There are designated swimming areas on some of the islands, but it is hard to resist the temptation to roll up your pants and wade into the water at any opportunity. The local children dive off the rocks on the edge of the township and swim carefree and unsupervised in the afternoon heat. Swimming in the lake is more invigorating than any sauna-style pampering treatment found on the inside of a hotel. Crystal clear water embraces you as you dive into its depths. Open your eyes beneath the water and chance upon a fish. If you want to get a closer look at the world beneath the water, the New Century Hotel sponsors many seasonal activities, including a one-month diving course over the summer to enable guests the opportunity to dive beneath the lake and experience the underwater city and aquatic life for themselves.

The fresh waters of the lake are a fun place for all ages. The water entertainment centre at Warm Island is the biggest water entertainment centre in the eastern part of China and offers exciting options for all the family. Leisurely paddle across the lake in a canoe; churn up the water with numerous donuts on a jet ski; parasail above the water behind a speedboat; or fly high above the lake in a Hydroplane. There is nothing like a shot of pure adrenaline to more than compensate for the lack of caffeine in your system. The water-based activities are very reasonably priced, and the recreational facilities at the Lake of a Thousand Islands are the perfect complement to the development of the lake as a centre for rest and relaxation. Warm Island also has a private beach, and although it may not be the prime site for a swimming beach, the designated swimming area equips swimmers with lifejackets and rescue rings for those uninitiated with the water. Some of the lake's premier resorts, such as Phoenix Island, offer their own water-based activities and you can charter private boats and yachts. If you are staying in the township, most boat tours and over-water day trips can be organised from the jetty. You can join a Chinese day tour of the islands or arrange for your own private tour at a reasonable cost.

The Lake of a Thousand Islands is also a good place to experience exotic wildlife in an interactive environment. The animals that roam freely on the designated islands are luckier than most of their counterparts in China, and for the foreign visitor it is a refreshing sight to see animals so full of vitality. Many islands are home to different wildlife species as their name suggests - Monkey Isle, Bird Garden, Ostrich Island, Peacock Island, Snake Island, etc. On most of the islands there is ample opportunity for close-up interaction with the animals - either feeding them by hand, touching them or riding on their back as the case may be on Ostrich Island. Ostrich feeding, ostrich riding and visiting exhibitions of various ostrich art ware are among the things to do on Ostrich Island. There are over 500 monkeys inhibiting Monkey Isle, with three different species. The monkeys are quite well acquainted with their human visitors, and beg for food with forlorn eyes. At Peacock Garden there are more than 1,000 peacocks of four species, including the spectacular white peacock. At the Bird Garden, you can walk through an enclosed walkway and have blackbirds perch on your arms and shoulders or eat from your hand. Fairy Dragon Isle is home to more than 100,000 snakes but no fairies - except the ones in you stomach as you pose for a photo beside one of the island's modern 'dragons.' While you can see wildlife anywhere in China, what makes the experience special on the Lake of a Thousand Islands is that in most instances, the animals have free range of the entire island. It is the perfect place to bring children and the young at heart.

Water Dance

With over 87 different types of fish bred in the lake, the region is one of the four largest producers of fish in the Zhejiang area. The outer reaches of the lake are home to numerous fish farms, and there are always fishing boats trawling the waters. One of the fascinating tourist activities while staying at The Lake of a Thousand Islands is the opportunity to watch the fishermen reel in their catch of the day. The spectacle of "dancing fish," is one of the more distinguished tourist activities in the region that is definitely worthy of all the hype it receives. The fishing schedule is irregular, so a trip to see the fish dance usually requires a few days advance planning. The net fishing is regulated by a quota system, so during some seasons there may not be many opportunities to catch the action. The fishermen usually make their catch on the outer reaches of the lake, so you often need to jump on one of the pre-organised Chinese tours to make sure that you are headed in the right direction. As you cruise out across the lake, the city disappears from sight as you travel through channels of water enclosed by mountains and mist.

At the destination, the tourist boats and fishing boats form a square around the nets below the water. A gang of fisherman wearing a line of bright orange hardhats stand single file on the width of a long, low-lying boat. From there they proceed to haul in the catch of the day - with a co-ordinated effort of "heave-hos" from the foreman of the crew, the men use all their might to pull the boat closer to the anchored point of the net. In doing so, the fish in the net are slowly pushed to the surface as the body of water in the net decreases. As the swarming mass of fish rise closer to the surface, the hundreds of fish at the bottom push the top layer of fish out of the water. This results in the fish leaping spectacularly out of the water - it truly looks as if they are dancing as they leap with all their might to the freedom of the air above. The sounds of splashing water soon drown out the sounds of the fishermen as they haul on the nets - flapping tails and fins diving in every direction. The fish manage to thrust themselves well over a metre in the air. Some land haphazardly on the surrounding tourist boats, drenching the Chinese tourists in their business suits with a shower of cold water. You can't help but laugh at the sight, and cameras flash in every direction. As the fishermen finally haul the nets closer together, the wriggling of the fish slowly subsides as their pool of water decreases, and their smooth, shiny dark grey bodies glisten in the sun. The fish caught in the nets are large, with most at least half a metre in length. Some of the larger fish are hauled out of the water for the tourists to pose with for photos. The small-framed Chinese struggle with the weight of the beast they are proudly holding by the gills for the camera. Just as quickly as the spectacle begins, the show is over, and the fishing boat departs with its haul. They are, after all, going about their daily business and have a job to do, we are only lucky enough to be given the opportunity to watch the most exciting and rewarding part of the days work.

The County
Lands of Pure Peace

The Zhejiang region that borders China's eastern coast is one of the smallest provinces in China. Located in the western reaches of the province, Chun'an County extends across an area of 4,427 square kilometres, and is the largest county of the province. Established in the East Han Dynasty, the growth of the cities of the Chun'an basin was bolstered in the 12th century when the Song Dynasty moved court to the nearby Hangzhou in the wake of Northern invaders. Once bound by the great mountain peaks of the Yellow Mountain to the north-west and the lush waterways of the Xin'an and Fuchun rivers to the south-east, the basin that is now the Lake of a Thousand Islands was once a prosperous centre of cities linking Anhui and Zhejiang provinces. In 1957, the Chun'an basin residents were given two years to evacuate the area's ancient cities. For many, this entailed leaving behind ancestral homes that could be traced back a thousand years. The entire population of the Chun'an basin was relocated across the country - some to nearby villages and others as far as China's western provinces. In total, 290,000 people were relocated to make way for the reservoir. The project was of such importance at the time that even Zhou Enlai himself visited the region to facilitate the process and rally enthusiasm. The Lake of a Thousand Islands now covers what was once the most densely populated part of the county. With the migration of the majority of the population to areas outside of Chun'an, the county's remaining residents are scattered around the villages found in the countryside. Today, only 450,000 people reside in the mountainous region of Chun'an County.

The water in Chun'an is of such a high quality that Nongfu (Peasant Mountain Spring) Water is distilled and bottled at Tianchi Pond on Tianchi Island. According to historical records, when the Southern Song Dynasty was established in Lin'an County, the government mined most of the stone it needed from the neighbouring Tianchi. The quarry was famous for its "tea garden blue stone," and the stones were shipped to neighbouring cities via the Xin'an-Fuchun-Qiantang river route. Over 800 years of mining lead to the creation of countless stone ponds. After the formation of the Lake of a Thousand Islands, only seven ponds remained above the reach of the lake, and can be found today on Tianchi Island. The stone ponds are now known as the Tianchi Ponds or 'Heaven Pools', and the area has become an official scenic spot. Tourists arriving at Tianchi Island can see the pools and take a tour of the NongFu water plant.

The name 'Chun'an means honest peace and pure tranquillity. The county has always been known for its beautiful forests and lush vegetation. Today, Chun'an County is the location of the largest state-level forest park in China. The Lake of a Thousand Islands park region covers 982 square kilometres, 93% covered in forest, and 95% of it green - 6 times the state average. The Chun'an basin is a haven of flora and fauna, home to 1,786 kinds of plants and 2,100 kinds of wild animals. Among them more than 20 kinds belong to state-level or provincial-level protected species. There is also an abundance of fruit trees growing on the islands and around the lake, including waxberry, peach, coreless persimmon, grape, orange and Chinese gooseberry. Some of the fruit grows naturally on the mountain slopes, and there are also several orchards in the outlying areas. Travelling through Chun'an County feels like a journey through every shade of green from the leaves on the trees to the of karst mountain ranges.

Oxygen Bar

From the Lake of a Thousand Islands Township, it is a 15 kilometre car ride over a bumpy road to the National Forest Park known as the "Oxygen Bar." The words 'Oxygen Bar' conjure up images of chic L.A watering holes that attract rich celebrities who go there to inhale pure oxygen. The Chinese have a much more naturalistic philosophy. The forest is named the Oxygen Bar because of the abundance of green, oxygen producing trees that grow on the surrounding hills. They encourage people to enjoy the benefits of clean, fresh air while walking through the track. On arrival, the entrance gates look much like any other pre-packaged Chinese national park. However, the absence of busloads of tourists and the sight of an array of different coloured butterflies about soon gives you the impression that the area is something more than simply a tourist site. The facilities inside the gates feel warm and welcoming, bathed in the sunshine that filters through overhanging branches.

As you begin your ascent of the hill track, it becomes obvious that the developers of the park have constructed the path with particular attention to detail. The stones that line the path have been made to look ancient, the railings for support have been built to look like forest logs, and blend in surprisingly well with the environment. The local caretakers have fostered a healthy sense of pride in the ecological welfare of this beautiful environment. Prominent signs mark the way to "Ecological Lavatories" - proof that some thought has been put into the sustainable development of the area. Small signs tucked into the flowerbeds along the path remind the visitor "flowers are our friends" and should be treated with care.

Creepy crawlies of every description thrive in this natural environment. Not the sort that make your blood crawl, but the type that make you want to look closer. Huge black caterpillars with furry bodies and bright red feet rest on the overhanging branches of the track. Butterflies of every description dance lazily on the breeze. Over-sized dragonflies with brilliant translucent blue wings shimmer in the rays of sun that sneak through the canopy of branches and leaves. Clear water flows over lime rocks and into small, enclosed ponds. Chrysanthemums and bronzed leaves float in the water, reminiscent of the inside of a cup of Eight-Treasure tea. Flower petals and crushed berries decorate the footpath like an artist's canvas spilled out across the rocks. The air is fresh and sweet - the scent of flowers and oxygen-producing plant life invigorating your lungs and cleansing your inner soul. The quiet sounds of mountain life carry on the breeze. This is the type of place you can believe that pixies and forest nymphs would choose to live if they existed. The oxygen bar is a perfect place to breath in the sweet perfumes of nature, listen to the song of birds, and relax to the sound of waterfalls.

A Vista of Villages

For those unfamiliar with southeast Chinese countryside, a visit to a village is worth the trip there alone. Lush rolling paddy fields cut into dense green hills to form layered terraces. Navigating the rough country roads and leaving civilisation further behind, it is possible to believe that country life in the area has remained unchanged over the centuries. Peasants go about their daily business unperturbed by your intrusion. They continue to till the fields with their oxen and carry large loads across bamboo poles along the road. It is as if the surrounding countryside has been in a time warp for the last 500 years, and you are stepping into a world of the past. The only hint of the twenty-first century is the straggly power lines that run across the fields and the odd motorbike belching smoke in its wake.

On the western side of the lake are several small peasant villages that received some of the relocated peoples of the ancient underwater cities. The village of Cangcuan Xiang Qincuan is located in a valley between two hill ranges that has a small river flowing through the centre. From the vantage point of one of the many hills, the faded black tiled roofs atop white plastered walls form some semblance in the clutter, in square formations. The few modern buildings jut out from the orderly nature of the level roofs, almost alien in nature. The old village houses - relatively plain on the outside, incorporate elaborate design and attention to detail on the inside. Red lanterns adorn the front doors of the houses, a nice contrast with the whitewashed walls. The architectural influence from Anhui prevails in the popular two-storied dwellings of rectangular design that crowd over the river's edge. Inside, an expansive first floor is designed around a square 'moon pool' built into the centre of the floor. An open-air ceiling above the pool allows sunshine to filter into the windowless residence. The roof has been left open so that rainwater can fall into the catchment of the pool, indicative of the age-old Chinese construction concept "never let the nourishing water flow into other's fields." The open-air roof design also creates an interesting take on the Western notion of indoor-outdoor living. The moon pool backs onto an opulent sitting area with a high ceiling and hanging calligraphy scrolls. It is a dignified tea-drinking corner that signifies the owner's status. Above, the second story usually contains the sleeping quarters and storerooms. Overall, the interior is impressive to behold, and the well-preserved houses feel more palatial than homely. The exquisite woodcarvings that line the rafters and wall panels are a visual reminder of the resident's cultural heritage. The intricate details of the carvings represent the daily lives of the Chun'an people over the centuries.

As well as a network of houses lining the river, the village also has its own temple/city hall. The building presides over the best site of the village. It too, has an open ceiling with a view of the mountain. Through the square of sky, a tree with craggy branches reaching across the sky is captured within the frame. The villagers proudly point out this design feature - although it remains unclear if it was actually the building or the tree that came first. The temple is no longer used regularly, and it feels more like a historical relic than anything else. Following the path of the river through the village, you wander past 'moon-arched' bridges of stone that criss-cross over the trickling water. Geese glide through the reflection of the village residences on the water - a picture of undisturbed peace. The lanes that run off the main waterway are flanked by high walls and steep gables, and lead to a maze of internal alleys leading to more residences hidden from view.

On the weekend days of rest, old and young sit about by the waters edge, enjoying the sunshine- unafraid of the sun's rays like their city counterparts. Women wash clothing and vegetables in the river, children play with their dogs, men smoke cigarettes in the shade. The elderly folk that sit quietly outside their houses look as if they could have been sitting there for centuries. There are no strangers in the village - and the ties between family members are extremely strong. The old ladies that hackle with laughter together as they fan themselves in the shade probably grew up as young girls together. The village people are surprisingly welcoming to city visitors arriving at the city. Curious, they follow you about - children with wild eyes giggle and point at such funny looking strangers. A city Chinese looks almost as out of place here as a foreigner. Their smart attire, plump bodies and skin that have never seen the sun are in stark contrast to the local residents. Dark skin, heavily lined faces, yellow teeth and small-framed bodies. The younger generation of children have more in common with Chinese city kids - they are well fed and the cherished darlings of the older generation. The children are soft and fat, and their parents skinny and weathered from the sun. It is almost as if they are of different ethnic groups. The villagers are extremely proud of their children, and it is common to see a proud father carrying his baby daughter around the village as he chats with friends. The villagers are also extremely proud of what they have - ushering you inside their house to view the well preserved architecture because they consider you have seen an inferior example by visiting their neighbours house instead of their own.

The smaller village of Jiangjia Zhensun Jiawu is another interesting place to visit. Higher up in the mountains, the countryside here isn't as lush, and many of the buildings in the village have been constructed from the local clay. Life is even simpler here - food dries on the ledges of the inner city walls and the yearly supply of corn maize lies drying in circles in front of the houses. Walking through the village you get the sense that they are simply going about their life as they always have, and probably always will. Although they undoubtedly have a much harder life than any office worker could fully comprehend - long hours and back-breaking labour enables them to survive off a pittance - there is more smiling and laughter in this small village than you see in many larger cities. The villager's worries are confined to that of basic day-to-day living, and there are no faces that look stressed or angry. Either they are happy with their lot in life, or they have simply come to accept it for what it is. The villagers extend a warm hand of welcome to foreigners who walk off the beaten path and into their world. If you can strain your ears hard enough to get past the thick local accent, stop to chat with them for a while you will find that they are as interested in you as you are in them. A few words praising the child of a doting parent is understood by all, regardless of what your cultural differences may be.

A visit to a village is the perfect way to experience the Chinese culture that one originally imagined to be representative of China before actually arriving in this rapidly developing country. It is easy to feel comfortable within the village walls. There is none of the disillusionment and disappointment that often accompanies the transition of living in large, uncaring cities consumed with commerce and consumerism. Leaving the villages behind, you suddenly wonder what is so special about the life that you are returning to?

The Stone Forest

The northern region of Chun'an County features karst mountain scenery that is easily accessible from the lake. There is an extensive collection of stone forests in the area south of the Lake of a Thousand Islands Township. The forests are another homage to the Chinese adept ability to transform a natural environment into a breath-taking collaborative vision of man and nature.

There are many places in China from which to view impressive stone karst formations that are a signature style of the Chinese hillside, such as the famous Stone Forests of Kunming that dwarf those of the Chun'an region by sheer size, volume and height. However, the Stone Forests found beside the Lake of a Thousand Islands are unique because of their situation on the steep slopes of the Chun'an Mountains. The Stone Forests of Chun'an provide an impressive view of karst mountain scenery, deep ravines and bottomless gorges. Because of its comparative remoteness from other scenic attractions in the area, the mountains that shelter the Stone Forest are not overly populated by tour groups, giving them a distinct advantage over other more popular Stone Forests in China. The developers of the Stone Forests of Chun'an have undertaken extensive forest planting over the last twenty years, so that a blanket of trees and seasonal foliage now grows naturally around the stones.

The town closest to the mountain area is Jingde, although the route from the Lake of a Thousand Islands Township is faster if part of the journey is made by boat. It is possible to stay overnight at the mountain in very basic, cabin-style accommodation. If you can handle the lack of amenities, the warm hospitality of the hosts and the sanctuary of the mountain range more than compensate for a comfortable bed. If you book in advance, the hosts can arrange a courtesy shuttle to facilitate a convenient arrival at the mountain.

Although the stones of the 'forest' have been excavated from the earth, the interesting formations can be accredited entirely to mother nature. As you climb further up the mountain on the way to the Stone Forest, the country pastures give way to dark green forests, steep elevation and sheer cliff sides. You can see many clusters of half-exposed rock formations on the mountains that rise sharply above the road. The excavation of the stones that form the Stone Forest were part of the regional tourism development project of the 1980s. It took three years to unveil a mountainside of ancient rock formations, and was officially opened to the public in 1986. As you walk through the maze of giant stones and interlocking passageways and climb through spaces along the winding path barely big enough to manoeuvre through, the sheer size and volume of the stones makes you feel insignificant in their presence. Although the majority of the Stone Forest borders the main tourist road, it is possible to take a longer trek up the mountainside to see the scope of the forest in its entirety.

There is much higher rainfall on the mountain, and the temperature is cooler than in the basin below. A great time to visit the Stone Forest is during a thunderstorm. From the safety of a two-storied teahouse, you can sip on a cup of green tea and let your gaze wander across the stone formations and delving canons of the mountains. As a tumultuous sky above threatens to unleash a fury of thunder and lightening, you can imagine what it must have been like to have been a Chinese scholar of old - hand poised and ready to write another line of poetry with a flurry of brush strokes. A cauldron of grey and white clouds clash against the mountain peaks and thunder roars and echoes through the caverns below. Lightning strikes down from the sky, narrowly missing the craggy trees that grow precariously from overhanging ledges. Large raindrops hiss as they land on the hot, dry earth, and the grapevines that weave around the rock formations shiver against the wind. There is a raw energy that bounces around the cavern below and uneasily contained by the dark mountains that rise into the clouds. Viewing such a scene is like being privy to the secrets of a landscape of ancient mysteries.

In the valley below, rain floods across the road and minor landslides and rock falls make for a dangerous journey home. As you drive through the villages of red clay houses, the villagers are hard at work draining the water from the road frontage. The rivers run red with clay, carrying the essence of the mountains along with them.

Lake of the Future
Sustainable Serenity

The Lake of a Thousand Islands is a beautiful place to enjoy a holiday from the rest of the world. The peaceful waters of the lake provide a perfect antidote to the toxic environment of big cities. In the colonial era, Mt Mogan (60 kilometres north of Hangzhou) was developed as a resort for Europeans living in Shanghai and Hangzhou. The old villas there serve as a reminder of the age-old tradition of escaping the bustling cities for spells of rest and relaxation. With a beautiful vista of mountains and water, quiet streets and idyllic island getaways, The Lake of a Thousand Islands looks set to become Eastern China's modern day Mt Mogan. While the region is not yet an all-encompassing resort destination, change happens fast in China. Many major developments are already underway that will make the Lake of a Thousand Islands much more accessible for foreign visitors in the future. A highway is under construction that will make future trips between the Lake of a Thousand Islands and Hangzhou much faster (around two hours) and a newly completed bridge connecting the township with the countryside across the western section of the lake makes scenic attractions such as the Yellow Mountain a convenient travelling distance.

Even though the area is undergoing rapid change, the local council is firmly committed to protecting the natural environment through the sustainable development and management of tourism and recreation on the lake. The council has fostered an ongoing relationship with industry and environmental experts (from China and abroad) aimed at facilitating a bright economic and ecological future for the Lake of a Thousand Islands. To their credit, they seem to be doing a good job so far. The new buildings and complexes of the township reflect a Western maturity and attention to detail. Unlike much of the construction seen around China, the foresight shown by the council has resulted in structures that will not be quickly outdated. There is progress on new subdivisions outside the township will become wealthy residential suburbs in the near future. Nestled at the foot of the mountains that border the lake, the lush green countryside under development has extensive views and wide, tree-lined pavilions. As well as residential development, the islands of the lake are also being carefully groomed for future tourism potential. The tallest island on the lake will soon have a new viewing facility that will incorporate a restaurant and accommodation. The view from this "Pearl Peninsula" - as the island is known - is even better than that from Peach Blossom Peak. There is no plan for a cable car as yet, and although the way has been paved with stone steps, the challenging climb to the peak through fir pines and dense foliage will provide an environment more suited to independent travellers than large tourist groups.

The future of the Lake of a Thousand Islands as a tourist destination can be likened to the well-established town of Kingston in Canada. Situated on the shores of lake Ontario, Kingston is the western gateway to the section of the Saint Lawrence River known as the One Thousand Islands - a naturally beautiful waterscape consisting of over 1,800 pine tree covered islets and outcrops that shares many similarities with the Lake of a Thousand Islands of China. There is a growing air of excitement at the Lake of a Thousand Islands as the locals prepare for the changes that future development will bring. In the township, billboards prominently display slogans such as "The beautiful Lake of a Thousand Islands will be even more beautiful in the future", fostering a feeling among the city residents that they are part of something that is about to get bigger and better. While some of their claims are a little over-the-top, you can't help but believe them because they are founded on the local's immense pride in their hometown. The people of the Lake of a Thousand Islands have good reason to be proud of the place they call home - many people earning a living in the big cities can only dream of calling such a place home.

More than a Memory

The Lake of a Thousand Islands is as romantic as the name suggests. An idyllic labyrinth of blue waterways and jade isles, the lake is a picturesque waterscape that remains delightfully undisturbed. It is truly a paradise for those wishing to escape into a world of serenity and natural splendour. The Lake of a Thousand Islands feels worlds away from the big cities; yet lies close enough to be the perfect out-of-city retreat. Those who have enjoyed the beautiful vista of the Lake of a Thousand Islands will find it an oasis to dream about as busy city days pass them by - a picturesque scene of islands and water too vivid an image to slip away in a mirage of memories. The Lake of a Thousand is a place to remember as you choke on the dust and pollution while navigating your way to work; a place to long for while stuck in another endless traffic jam; and a place that beckons when the overwhelming noise of everyday life becomes too loud to bear.

For the China-weary with RMB to burn, The Lake of a Thousand Islands yields an interesting prospect - a holiday from China while holidaying in China. Forget the hassles of arranging travel visas, crossing time zones, and changing money - everything that you need to relax is waiting for you in the close proximity of Zhejiang province. The Lake of a Thousand Islands is a place to bring your partner on a romantic retreat; a place to bring your children for recreation; a place to bring your book and relax; or simply a place to return to when you need a fresh leash on life. For those arriving in China, a stay at the Lake of a Thousand Islands is the perfect complement to a busy sightseeing schedule. Visitors looking for a scenic destination rather than another scenic attraction, the youthful sparkle of the reservoir provides a refreshing change from the ancient landscapes of China's more famous scenic sites. The Lake of a Thousand Islands is a place for holidaymakers and explorers, a place hidden and small enough to call your own.

A beautiful paradox of human creation, the Lake of a Thousand Islands is a quintessential picture of natural beauty. For the foreign visitor, the Lake of a Thousand Islands is a refreshing anomaly in the grander picture of Chinese modernisation, bustling cities and ancient wonders.